Sep 11, 2017

The first weekend of September 2017

We cast off on the first day of September for a long-weekend trip in the southern part of the Archipelago Sea. The westerly wind was blowing around 20 knots on Friday, so we got a pretty fast reaching leg to Helsingholm, which is our favourite harbours in the Finnish Archipelago.

Autumn has definitely it's own charm in the Archipelago. There is definitely some melancholy in the air as the summer is (almost) over. On the other hand, it is nice to go swimming under the stars (if you happen to get the late sauna booking), as the sea water and evenings are still relatively warm. Furthermore, the Archipelago is great for watching the stars, as you are pretty far away from the big cities.

On Saturday, the weather turned cloudy and grey, and also the wind was light during the day, so we motored about two thirds of the 15 nautical miles leg to our cruising club's island base located in the southern Hitis Archipelago.

The wind strengthened and turned to east on Sunday and it was blowing around 20-25 knots, as we cast off around noon for our return journey back to north. We had a calm lunch break in a nice ancorage called Södra Benskär, but after that we had to put the second reef in the main, as the wind had increased to about 25 to 30 knots.

On Monday we had only a short leg from Airisto Marina to our homeport in Turku. The easterly wind was blowing around 25 to 35 knots, and although the was blowing over land, there was a couple of more open areas, where the nasty steep waves gave the deck a good wash.

Dolphin Dance logged about 90 nautical miles during the weekend.


Friday evening on Helsingholm

Saturday evening in Hitis Archipelago 

On Sunday, the wind increased during the day, so we had second reef on the main sail
for the first time this season. 

 On Monday, the wind was gusting 35 knots, so we were sailing only with a partly furled genoa  

Aug 6, 2017

Sailing on Lake Mälaren

In terms of sailing grounds, Sweden and Finland are probably best known for their Baltic Sea Archipelagos. However, both of these countries have also thousands of lakes and most of the largest ones can be visited with a sailing boat. This season we sailed to Lake Mälaren, which is the third largest lake in Sweden.

We only spent two nights at Mälaren, so we cannot really say that we would know this 120 kilometres long lake area inside out. However, during the two days we got taste of fresh water sailing.

From the Baltic Sea, Lake Mälaren can be accessed in two ways: via southerly Södertälje canal, where the lock is located at the center of Södertälje city. Another way to come to Mälaren with your own boat is via Hammarby lock, which is located in Stockholm. Both the canals have only one lock, and as the average water level difference between Baltic Sea and Mälaren is only about 0,6 m, the locking is fairly easy and the rise or fall of water level is barely noticeable.

These two waterways to Mälaren mean that you can make a nice ring route and have a new landscape all the time. There is quite a lot of motoring expected especially when going to / from the lake, but the changing scenery makes also these legs interesting. For example, we have been in Stockholm many times before, but it was interesting to approach this large capital city from the Mälaren side for the first time.

The winds were light during our stay so we had to motor both the days when on the lake. We did not find information on official wild anchorages, but as the wind was light on the first night, we ended up dropping the anchor just close to the shore and had a nice and peaceful evening and night with great views over to the lake.

Is the Lake Mälaren worth the visit for a cruising sailor?

Well, I guess that the answer depends. The history of the area is long so there is definitely interesting places to visit and see. We only stopped at Birka Viking village and in the idyllic Mariefred town, but there probably would have been many more places to see. On the other hand, for those who are looking for staying in a wild postcard anchorages by the rocks, Stockholm Archipelago, Åland Islands and the Archipelago of Turku offer much more options for this kind of cruising.

For someone who have sailed in Stockholm Archipelago for many years, route via Lake Mälaren offers a nice alternative, as you can go south from Stockholm via the lake and then come back north via the Stockholm archipelago (or the other way around as we did). On the other hand, if you are first-timer in the Baltic Sea Archipelagos or planning to sail here from further away, in my opionin these great archipelagos offer so many beautiful harbours and anchorages, that one or two months is not going to be enough to even scratch the surface of this area.

Trees are growing over the lake like in a jungle. Lush forests look nice, but are difficult to walk!

Unlike in Stockholm Archipelago, even the small islets are full of trees

Hammarby lock 

Opening bridge at the lock

Södertälje canal

Locking is easy and rise of water is barely noticeable

Trosa is a nice picturesque city in the east coast of Sweden (Baltic Sea). Located about 30 nm away 
from the Lake Mälaren, it is a good stopover place to / from the Södertälje canal route.


The Birka Viking village (Björkö) has an interesting history. The actual village is nicely reacreated, but apart from that, there's not that much to see. Also the facilities were not that great so we only paid a short visit.  

We really liked the idyllic small town of Mariefred

Gripsholm's Castle, Mariefred

The castle is located close to the harbour

Approaching Stockholm

Harbour under the bridge. Västerbrohamnen is located in the Mälaren side of Stockholm, and is a good option to crowded Wasahamn or Navishamnen. The harbour has some guest berths. 

Jul 26, 2017

Cover Girl - Dolphin Dance on På Kryss magazine

Photo of Dolphin Dance can be found on the cover of Swedish boating magazine På Kryss (nr 5/2017). The magazine is published by Svenska Kryssarklubben and is also available at App Store or Google Play. Photo was taken in July 2016 when sailing north towards Bothnian Sea and Kylmäpihlaja island

Jul 11, 2017

Landsort – the southernmost island in the Stockholm Archipelago

After a provisioning stopover at Nynäshamn, we continued (on the 4th of July) with a short 11 nautical miles' leg to Landsort, which is located by the open Baltic Sea just south of the Nynäshamn peninsula. Landsort is actually the name of the lighthouse on the southern tip of the island Öja, but often the whole island is referred to as Landsort.

There are three harbours on Öja – the norhern harbour 'Norrhamn' is the island's guest harbour with about 40 berths for visiting boats. We rented bicycles from the guest harbour, as there is over two kilometres' distance from Norrhamn to the village and about three kilometres to the lighthouse.  The small village is picturesque and there is a nice little bar by the Västerhamn - that is the western harbour, which is used by the pilot vessels. 

There is also a small eastern harbour, which is located by the steep rocks. The harbour is used mainly by passanger boats, when the sea state permits. However, there were also two small sailing boats in the harbour, but we couldn't find information on the depth etc. from our Pilot book (Arholma-Landsort harbour guide).

Landsort Västerhamn 

Landsort is the oldest lighthouse in Sweden
Öja island is four kilometers long and only 500 meters wide
Saltboden is a nice pub in the western harbour and serves great local beer 'Landsort Lager'

Landsort Österhamn (Eastern harbour)

The northern harbour 'Norrhamn' is the island's guest harbour

Jul 7, 2017

Turning point: Ringsöfladen

Ringsöfladen (58° 44' N, 17° 26,6' E) in the east coast of Sweden was our this year's southernmost point and thus our turning point for the summer sailing trip. Located about 15 nautical miles west of Landsort, Ringsöfladen has a nice sheltered lagoon which resembles Paradiset in the Stockholm Archipelago.

We sailed to Ringsön via Utö (Sweden), Nynäshamn and Landsort. We are currently in Trosa and continue towards Stockholm via Lake Mälaren.

Jul 2, 2017

Hälsningar från Sverige!

We sailed across the Åland Sea from Mariehamn to Stockholm Archipelago on Wednesday the 28th of June. The wind conditions were almost perfect: the northwesterly wind had eased to about 14 to 16 knots, so we were able to sail most of the leg at good speed. The wind only eased in the late afternoon when we were already close to the destination.

 Sailing past Kobba Klintar in Åland

We stayed the first night in a wild anchorage in the Söderarm Archipelago by the Åland Sea. This area is beautiful and location is especially convenient when sailing to/from Åland. We also stayed in this area in summer 2014.

On the following two days the northeasterly wind was very strong so we headed downwind towards the inner Stockholm Archipelago.

 Bullandö Marina

 Bullandö Marina has great facilities and perhaps the finest commercial sauna 
in Stockholm Archipelago

Now we are motoring in calm wind and relatively warm weather towards Utö (in Sweden).

p.s. more photos and videos in our Instagram Stories, which is by the way also our 
most up-to-date channel

Jun 23, 2017

Greetings from Åland!

This summer's main sailing trip started on Saturday the 17th of June with a leg from Turku to Korppoo. After that we continued to Åland and Mariehamn, where we arrived on Tuesday. We had some plans to sail over to the Swedish side, but Tuesday was too windy as the northwesterly wind was gusting almost in gale strength.

The boat was left to Mariehamn for about a week and we are back in action on Tuesday next week.

Have a great Midsummer everybody!

On the first two days we had mostly light headwind

Sunday evening in Åland

On Monday the wind veered to north and we got a great 
sailing leg through the southeastern Åland Archipelago